Parque del Buen Retiro – or just “El Retiro” – is Madrid’s version of Central Park. Located in the southeast of the city center, this 350-acre park is one of Madrid’s must-sees. No matter what time of day you visit, you’ll see families, couples, friends, and individuals enjoying a retreat (in Spanish: retiro) from the city hustle in Retiro Park.
I’ve been living in Madrid for a month now, and El Retiro is one of the places I go back to again and again. Maybe it’s because I know the weather will be changing soon, or maybe it’s because the wide-open green spaces remind me a little of home. Either way, there’s no shortage things to do, and it’s worth a visit for anyone who passes through Madrid.
Here are the top 3 things to do in El Retiro.
1. Pack a picnic
I’ve spent three weekends in Madrid, and I’ve had no less than three picnics in the park. It’s easy to pack a blanket — or a towel, or anything you can sit on — a bocadillo, some fruit, and a bottle of wine or two, and find a place to sprawl out in the grass. There are plenty of trees to shade you from the sun, or you can work on your tan. There are also patches of greenery surrounded by hedges if you want a little more privacy. Even if you’re by yourself, no one will look at you strangely for being alone. Last week, I took the book I’ve been reading — The Ghosts of Spain — to the park and spent a few lazy hours underneath a tree with my book, a giant hunk of cheese, and a juice box. (I’m very #cultured, I know.)
2. Rent a paddleboat
Since Retiro Park used to belong to the monarchy, the park is full of monuments, sculptures, and fountains. In the middle of the park, you’ll find the Alfonso XII monument looming over El Retiro’s largest lake. On any given day – and especially on Sundays, when the park is at its busiest – you’ll see groups of people out on the lake in boats. It may seem like a “touristy” thing to do, but it looks like a lot of fun, anyway. For only €6 on weekdays or €8 on weekends, you and three friends can spend 45 minutes paddling around the lake. Though I haven’t done this yet, I have some friends coming to visit at the end of October, so maybe we can check it out. I will certainly report back!
3. Be active!
Every time I step into El Retiro, its maze-like structure overwhelms me again. There are miles and miles of trails crisscrossing and zigzagging through the park; more often than not, these trails are filled with people exercising in some form or another. Of course, you’ve got your walkers and joggers… but you’ve also got bikers, rollerbladers, skateboarders, scooters, and go-karts. Other than the amount of walking I now do on a daily basis – an average of 10,000 steps a day, up from my previous average of 1,000 – I’m not a very active person. But if I was, I would definitely go to El Retiro to exercise. Who knows who I’ll become, though? Maybe Spain will turn me into a running fanatic or something.
Have you ever visited Retiro Park? What are your favorite things to do there? Let me know in the comments!
-Cathy
Originally Published on October 11, 2018.
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